Road Rules in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka of offers a unique perspective on driving. Ostensibly there is some kind of road code which resembles the New Zealand version. In practice, however, no one seems to pay it any heed. The roads are a mess of traffic - utterly chaotic and inefficient. Somehow, however, people still manage to find their destination. There are several problems with the infrastructure of the roads: 1. There is little road maintenance, so potholes and road-wear is entirely common, 2. Few roads are wider than two lanes - even on main trunk lines like the Kandy-Colombo road. This means that a huge amount of traffic is wedged onto one tiny road creating pandemonium, 3. I have seen nothing in the way of yellow lines, meaning that traffic can park pretty much anywhere they like and overtaking is simply a matter of personal judgment. These problems are mainly due to a lack of resources and a lack of space (there simply isn't enough room on the tiny island for wide lanes).

Traffic accident:

As for driving customs, there are some essential rules that one needs to be aware of: 1. If you want to change lanes or turn onto a road simply inch out until you have obstructed the traffic flow enough with your vehicle such that other vehicles have to let you in, 2. When you are driving through tiny side streets and built up-urban areas at high speed, ensure that furiously honk your horn so that potential traffic you cannot see will know that they better get out of the way, 3. When overtaking on a corner, or when overtaking by moving into the path of oncoming traffic (both a common phenomenon) ensure that you hopelessly blast your horn in the vain hope that the traffic will stop before crashing into you, 4. If you come across a crowd of people choking the road, violently weave between the pedestrians forcing them to dive out of the way of your vehicle, and finally: 5. Be aware that any road signs and/or road markings are entirely suggestions. In fact, it is better if you ignore them altogether. For example: lane markings are just approximate indictors of where your vehicle could be, it is quite acceptable to drive in the middle of the road hogging both lanes or cram your vehicle beside another vehicle on a one way road.

Overtaking (before - note bend):

Overtaking (during - note bend):

The above road rules are for cars and vans only. Buses and trucks in Sri Lanka always have the right of way, and it's best not to think of getting in the way of the public buses which show no interest in slowing down for anything. As for three-wheelers (autorickshaws or "Bajaj's") and motor bikes, signalling is entirely unnecessary and these vehicles will weave inbetween vehicles choking the road and creating a whole host of potential safety problems. As for pedestrians, the general rule is this: If you want to cross the road simply walk out in front of traffic holding up your palm (i.e. "please stop") and hope that the oncoming traffic will brake in time. Locals seem to be utterly fearless in this regard and seem confident they will not be hit.

People often tell me that there are few road accidents in Sri Lanka because the locals have an "understanding". I happen to know, however, that Sri Lanka has one of the highest road accident records per capita in the world. This doesn't surprise me all that much. Last time I was in the country I witnessed two road accidents (in one case a bus had rolled down an embankment deforming the chasis in a rather comical way - I later saw the bus driving away, the entire bus frame warped at a 45 degree angle and the driver poking his head out the window). This time, Kumudu's cousin was hit from behind by a three-wheeler while he was riding his bike. He was lucky because he only suffered a few scratches, but the driver escaped. There was no point reporting the three-wheeler since: a) the police don't investigate such things and b) there are thousands of three-wheelers in Colombo so identification is impossible.

Three-wheeler cruising:

The upshot of all this is that driving in Sri Lanka is always a contrast: Either you are driving at dangerous speed through empty streets and rural roads, or you are stuck in traffic in sweltering, mosquito infested heat. Having said all that, there is something quite endearing about the whole experience. As dangerous as it objectively is, one never feels that unsafe. The drivers have such a confidence about them it is difficult to believe an accident could in fact happen. And although the drivers are quite hopeless and the roading inefficient, there is very little in the way of road rage. Everyone is quite patient in spite of the reckless driving. So in that sense, we have a lot to envy in New Zealand - if Sri Lankans never get annoyed by bad driving, then we in New Zealand really have no excuse!